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LEARNING THE BAGPIPES

THE PRACTICE CHANTER
BAGPIPE ANATOMY

BUYING A SET OF BAGPIPES
L E A R N I N G   T H E   B A G P I P E S

As stated on our tuition page, you will need what is known as a practice chanter. This is a smaller, quieter version of the chanter on the pipes and is mouth blown without the use of a bag. It also has a different sound. This will be used for the initial learning stages and right throughout your piping career as a practice device.

Where possible, it is best to seek out a band or a competent tutor rather than try and teach yourself from a manual. It is almost impossible for a novice to hear the faults that only a trained ear can detect. A "do it yourself" approach will more than likely develop bad habits that can be difficult to overcome.

Learners should resist the temptation to buy a set of bagpipes early on. This can can wait for at least a couple of months until you have established the basics on the practice chanter. Occasionally a band may have a set to loan out which learners can start on.

Learner pipers start on the scale and then single grace notes. Once this has been mastered, simple tunes are possible. Learners will then progress to embellishments such as doublings, throws, grips, birls and tuorluaths. Due to the fact that pipers cannot articulate each note separately (like a flute or recorder) we use embellishments to give our music colour and to help distinguish particular notes.

Often learners are intimidated by the technical nature of the bagpipe's finger work, but a disciplined and methodical approach with the right guidance will yield good results for most. Another problem for learners is the somewhat outdated idea that it takes at least 5 years to become a reasonable piper. We have a learning program that helps to fast track learners onto pipes as quickly as possible, without cutting any corners. With the right approach, there is no reason why a dedicated pupil should not be able to play easy tunes on the bagpipes within a year of starting.
T H E   P R A C T I C E   C H A N T E R

Look for are a chanter that is ergonomically comfortable to play and also has an accurate scale. For the novice, these qualities can be difficult to judge so try and involve your tutor in the selection process. If possible, try a few different models before buying.


A selection of African Blackwood Practice Chanters


TYPES OF PRACTICE CHANTERS

Pakistani

Pakistani practice chanters have a light brown colour and are usually made from Sheesham or Rosewood. These are at the bottom end of the market and while some are marginally playable, most have a poor scale with a muffled sound. They really can't be recommended and should be avoided.

Acetal

Plastic practice chanters are usually made from Acetal or Delrin. These are extremely durable and are impervious to the effects of moisture - a key consideration as practice chanters collect condensation from the breath of the player. Most represent good value for money and should last a lifetime. If you decide piping isn't for you, these can be resold without too much difficulty.

African Blackwood

African Blackwood practice chanters sit at the top of the market and while aesthetically pleasing, they offer no particular advantage over the Acetal versions. Some would say they produce a more mellow "musical" sound, but they can be fragile and the top section can be affected by moisture with swelling and cracking. Some feature a plastic top section or a wooden top lined with plastic to avoid this problem.

STANDARD VERSUS LONG

Practice chanters in Acetal and African Blackwood are available in standard and long lengths and some makers also offer a child size version. The differences come down to the length of the top section and the distance between the holes. Long practice chanters have become quite popular however some find them clumsy and uncomfortable to play. The long practice chanters have wider hole spacing than the standard ones and are intended to duplicate the feel of a pipe chanter - the theory, or myth, being that they make the transition to playing full size bagpipes that much easier.

The problem with this is that the practice chanter is not played at the same angle as a bagpipe chanter and the arms also sit in a different position. A possible end result with the long practice chanter is an uncomfortable right hand and difficulty in playing Low A and Low G - particularly if you have short arms or small fingers. If you are considering a long practice chanter, it really is best to try before you buy - if in doubt, you cannot go wrong with a standard sized model.

THE "GOOSE"

The practice goose is basically a practice chanter attached to a small bag without drones. These are often used as a stepping stone to the pipes but should not be considered essential. Some are in fact sold with small tuneable drones and as such can be used as a musical instrument in their own right.
B A G P I P E   A N A T O M Y


B U Y I N G   A   S E T   O F   B A G P I P E S

There is a huge range of choice when it comes to buying a set of bagpipes. For the uninformed beginner, it would be quite easy to make a bad decision, but with the help of a tutor and plenty of research this can be avoided.

TYPES OF BAGPIPES

Pakistani

Pakistani bagpipes are generally made from Sheesham or Rosewood and are usually adorned with white plastic mounts or chromed metal mounts. Some are painted black to imitate African Blackwood and indeed there are Pakistani pipes made from African Blackwood, albeit of questionable quality. Generally the workmanship is quite poor and the sound quality leaves much to be desired. Nine out of ten bagpipes on Ebay are Pakistani in origin and despite their attractive prices, should be avoided. As a word of caution - Ebay would be the last place to buy a set of pipes, Pakistani or not. The exception would be a new set from a maker or seller you knew and trusted.

Acetal

Bagpipes constructed from Acetal or Delrin have been around for quite a while and have a lot to recommend them. They can be a good deal cheaper than African Blackwood pipes, are virtually indestructible, won't crack or warp and are unaffected by moisture. While not a criticism, some have a tendency to produce a brighter tone than the equivalent African Blackwood set. One other issue is that condensation tends to build up more than it would in a Blackwood set, but with today's moisture control systems this shouldn't be a problem.

African Blackwood

At the top end of the market there is African Blackwood. This is a very dense and hard wood with a high oil content and is ideal for use in musical instruments. Bear in mind that as a natural product, not all African Blackwood is created equal. Some of it has a tendency to warp and crack, particularly if the wood was not seasoned properly before being turned. Both Acetal and particularly African Blackwood pipes are relatively easy to sell if you decide piping isn't for you.

Alternative Woods

Certain makers also offer pipes made from Ebony, Mopane and Cocobolo with subtle differences in tone compared to African Blackwood. The choice really comes down to personal taste at this end of the market.

NEW VERSUS SECOND-HAND

For the beginner, buying a new set of pipes can be a safer option than buying second-hand. This isn't always the case, but if there is a problem with a new set, the buyer usually has some level of recourse with the dealer or maker to have the issue resolved.

Alternatively, a good condition second-hand set with no signs of cracking or bowing should be considered a safe buy - if the wood was going to fail it probably would have already done so.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Buying second-hand bagpipes without a hands-on inspection is quite risky. Second-hand pipes require a trained eye to inspect them and ensure everything is in order. Even a set that is only 2 years old may have problems that could be hard to identify without knowing what to look for. The assistance of a tutor is almost essential for the learner piper buying their first set of pipes. The following pertains to African Blackwood pipes.
  • Firstly inspect the general exterior appearance. Look for dark, consistently coloured, straight grained wood. Look for damaged areas, botched repairs, external cracks and chips, obvious bowing or warping and the consistency of the combing and beading. Very slight bowing or warping is considered normal and almost unavoidable with African Blackwood. Even a reasonably new set may not run true if it's sections are put back on a lathe.
  • Check for loose or non original mounts and try to ascertain if the mounts are threaded on. Threaded mounts are certainly preferable to ones that are just pressed and glued on, however bear in mind that there a plenty of mediocre sounding bagpipes with threaded mounts and great sounding bagpipes with non-threaded mounts.
  • Look for any mismatched pieces - these are sometimes referred to as a "Frankenpipe". Often an old set can be made up from 2 or more sets from the same maker, or worse, from different makers. Pipes from the same maker can change in design over time and when these different pieces are combined the mismatch is often quite obvious. Look for inconsistencies in the profiling and differences in the combing and beading. Different coloured mounts can also be a give-away. The inclusion of non-original parts doesn't necessarily mean the pipes aren't worth considering. If they are still from the same maker and blend in well then the pipes they could still be a good buy if they are priced accordingly. Sometimes a pipe maker - hopefully the original - will be employed to make replacement pieces and normally these should not be considered a problem.
  • The next step is to inspect the bores. Look for cracking along the entire length of each piece and particularly inside the tuning chambers and stocks where pressure from the joints can cause cracks.
  • Also check for tapered wear inside the tuning chambers by sliding the tuning pin in and out, feeling for a change in tightness. This wear occurs from years of the hemp slowly removing wood from inside the bore. It can also occur to a lesser extent inside the stocks.
The chances of finding a perfect second-hand set are highly unlikely. As with any used item, there are degrees of condition ranging from very poor to almost new. A below average set may have some very slight warping, maybe even a small crack, but if they were suitably discounted to reflect their condition and they produced a quality sound, they may well be worth considering as a first set. If in doubt, walk away.

CHOOSING A MAKE

This applies to new and second-hand pipes.

The bagpipes from different pipe makers usually have a distinctive sound when compared to each other. To choose a particular make over another based on sound requires a certain amount of education and exposure to a variety of instruments in order to appreciate the differences and to develop a preference.

It is better to evaluate a set of pipes based on it's individual merits rather than to buy solely on the make or brand. Many pipers favour the tone of Hendersons and buy a set hoping for a particular sound. This doesn't always happen as some Hendersons vary in tone quite markedly compared to others. The same can be said of many pipe makers whose product has varied over the years. Bear in mind that the drone reeds used and the quality of the player have more to do with the sound produced than any other factor.

BAGPIPE MOUNTS

The reason why some pipes cost $1500 and others $10000 has nothing to do with sound, but rather the decorative adornments fitted to the bagpipe. Bagpipes with mounts made from Silver, Mammoth Ivory and on older sets, Elephant Ivory, can cost a small fortune and they won't sound any better for it.

Most pipe makers offer 7 or 8 different models, starting with a plain turned button mounted set and going up to a combed and beaded full silver set. The other models in the range will offer a variety of combinations of mounts possibly made from nickel, aluminium, steel, imitation ivory and various woods. Some pipe makers also offer horn, Mammoth ivory and in rare cases Elephant ivory. Each pipe maker will have a standard range of mounts and some are willing to customise.

Many pipers opt for a model with the model numbers 3 or 4. A number 4 usually has imitation ivory projecting mounts and mouthpiece bulb, with metal being used for the ferrules, tuning slides, ring caps and mouthpiece tube. The metal could be plain nickel, steel or aluminium and it may also be available with a machine engraved pattern. These are a moderately priced instrument with an attractive appearance and are easy to resell if you want to upgrade. Of course appearance is a subjective matter and you may be quite happy with a great sounding set with a very plain appearance.

Williamstown R.S.L. Pipe Band Inc.,
C/O The Secretary,
11 Vivid Court,
Tarneit, Victoria,
Australia, 3029

Phone: 03 9749 5723

EMAIL - SECRETARY

EMAIL - PIPE MAJOR

ABN - 63 578 773 610

Inc. no. - A0021634H

Webmaster

Last Updated: 27/07/2008